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Dial variant (Mark)

A detail difference between dials of the same reference (colour, typeface, wording), which collectors number as "Mark I", "Mark II" and so on. Some variants are worth considerably more than others.

A dial variant is a difference between dials of the same reference: colour, typeface, length of a line of text, shape of a marker. At Rolex, the reference does not necessarily change when the dial evolves; collectors have therefore got into the habit of numbering these successive versions as "Mark I", "Mark II" and so on, often shortened to Mk1, Mk2.

Why it matters

Within an identical reference, two variants can have very different values. The first variants of a series, produced briefly before a correction, are often the most sought after, because they are rarer and because they mark the beginning of the model. Conversely, a common variant brings no premium.

The term also covers dials of different colours under a single reference. The Rolex Milgauss 116400GV thus exists with a black dial and a blue "Z-Blue" dial, with a price gap of about €2,000 in 2026 according to our data. At Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet, dial colour is usually coded in the reference suffix (-010, -014…), which makes the variant easier to identify.

Examples and precautions

The Rolex Daytona 116520 is the classic example: collectors distinguish several successive "Marks" based on the typeface and layout of the text. On the Submariner "Kermit" 16610LV, the same logic applies to the bezel insert, whose first version, known as "Flat 4", is the most sought after.

A variant must be checked on the watch and documented: year on the warranty card, consistency with the serial number, original condition. A service dial fitted during an overhaul erases the original variant, and a rare dial fitted to a watch that never carried it makes it a frankenwatch. Our valuation tool takes the dial into account when it affects the price.

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